Nothing you read about the overnight train from Cairo to Luxor will prepare you for this Egyptian experience. What I am about to tell you will make you question if you want to attempt this journey.
But let’s start from the beginning. Why take the overnight train from Cairo to Luxor?
When most people plan a trip to Egypt, they usually include Cairo as their entry point. And why not? There are so many things to do in Cairo. From the pyramids of Giza to the Egyptian Museums and markets, there is a whole new world to explore in this ancient country. A trip to Alexandria, Aswan, or the Red Sea might be in order for those with more time. But for most, Egypt will almost always include a trip to Luxor to see the Valley of the Kings.
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Where is Luxor?
Luxor is located about 640 kilometers south of Cairo along the banks of the Nile River. It is one of the most popular destinations in Egypt outside of Cairo and is visited by thousands of travelers and history fans worldwide. Some refer to it as the world’s largest open-air museum. Luxor offers not only plenty of tombs, temples, and historical sites, but it gives a glimpse into the lives and livelihoods of the Egyptian way of life.
Why Take the Overnight Train from Cairo to Luxor?
Some will argue that taking the overnight train to Luxor is the best way, while others will say that flying there is the best option. Flying, of course, will take less time; if that is important, take the flight. Cheap-O Air can provide some great pricing for this flight.
However, if you are interested in saving money (and a night’s accommodation) and seeing some of Egypt’s interior along the way, then take the train. BUT there are some things you need to know about this 12-hour journey.
The Experience of the Overnight train from Cairo to Luxor
To explain my comment further regarding this train ride being the worst must-do experience, I will describe all the aspects of the journey and let you make your conclusions.
It is important to note that this overnight train was part of a group tour from Wingbuddy.com that included Egyptian historical sites in Cairo, Luxor, Aswan, Abu Simbel, and a Nile Cruise Itinerary.
Arriving at the Train Station
Following an exciting and exhausting day touring the Pyramids of Giza and other important sites in Cairo, we headed towards the Giza train station to board our overnight train to Luxor. Some people may select to start the journey from the Ramses Station in downtown Cairo, but the Giza station was closer to where we were.
When we arrived at the station, our group was met with not one but three armed policemen (tourist police) who escorted us through the very crowded train station out the rear doors to the platform. This was somewhat disconcerting as we had only been in Egypt for about 24 hours, and we had not grown accustomed to the noticeable police presence.
Once on the platform, we were further escorted inside a protected area behind a glass wall beside a local café and snack bar. Here, once again, we were guarded by police as we waited for the overnight train. Unfortunately, due to timing and the fact that it was Ramadan, we had about a 3-hour wait for the Cairo to Luxor overnight train. Our first-class sleeper train was scheduled to leave around 8:45 pm.
During our 3 hours wait at the station, we viewed several hundred if not thousands of Egyptians passing through the station as they waited for and caught the second and third-class trains heading in the same direction. These trains appeared to be in poor condition, and we were told they have no air-conditioning and usually have standing room only. Can you imagine a 12-hour journey standing?
Food at the Train Station
The Giza train station in Cairo is probably not the best place to seek out and experience authentic Egyptian food. Although we were sequestered inside the patio of a small café, I would NOT recommend eating there if you can avoid it. Our group members tried some local foods and even a hamburger from the café, but they were cold and bland, and we even had to question whether the burger was beef or not. The only thing edible was the fries.
Further along the platform and several places, there are small snack stands where you can purchase junk food and soft drinks. We opted for these processed items instead.
If you plan to take the overnight train from Cairo to Luxor, you would be wise to purchase and bring your snacks before arriving at the station.
Toilets at the Train Station
If you were to assume that because there is a café on the platform, there would be toilets inside, you would be mistaken! Unlike in North America, restaurants are not required to have public restrooms on the premises. Incidentally, we found the lack of public toilets to be an issue in Egypt in general.
If you need to go while waiting for the train, public toilets are available. However, the toilets on the train platform are probably the filthiest facilities I have ever seen! Firstly, you can view the sinks full of dirty cooking dishes once you gain entrance by paying the “tissue” fee (a tip to receive your toilet paper). I did not want to get too close, but I saw food remnants being eaten by bugs and such, so I am not sure how long they had been sitting there.
Secondly, there were three stalls, only one with a door and only two that had a toilet. The third stall merely had a hole in the floor. I understand this is common in this part of the world, but I did not expect this on a train platform.
Finally, the floors were wet, and I could not identify if it were due to a leak or sloppy mopping or if people were just “missing.” I can only imagine what the men’s side may have looked like. Bottom line – if you can avoid them, do not use the public toilets on the train platform.
RELATED: Check out the Ultimate EGYPT Trip Planning Checklist Bundle available on Etsy.
Boarding the Overnight Train from Cairo to Luxor
Once the overnight train pulled into the station, we couldn’t be happier to begin boarding. Luckily, by this time in the evening, many locals had left the platform, and only the tourists waiting for the train to Luxor were left.
Once on the train, you are greeted with a slight smell of stale coffee and cigarettes, and you hope your cabin will not provide the same odor. The train, although somewhat dated, appears to be clean, which was a relief after waiting in the station. The cabin steward showed us to our cabins and indicated that he would be by later with our meals and to transform our sitting area into the bed for the night.
Cabins on the Train
The double-compartment cabins on the train are cozy, to say the least. There is barely enough room to move, let alone store any luggage. It is about three feet from the edge of the bed/seats to the wall across the cabin. If you have luggage, you will need to place this on the top bunk right away to sit on the seats. Large suitcases will be a challenge to stow in this cabin. Technically, a small storage place accessible from the top bunk, but getting them there is a challenge.
There is no toilet in the cabin, but there is a small sink and mirror. In theory, you could wash your face or brush your teeth, but personally, I would not trust the water onboard for either. Toilets are at the end of each rail car and are second only to the toilets on the platform for their lack of cleanliness. Imagine, if you will, water (or something) on the floors being spread by the movement of the train. If there is any, toilet tissue bounces off the holders onto the wet floor. Mental note – BRING YOUR OWN TP. Oh, and by the way, the toilets “flush” directly onto the tracks.
Food on Overnight Train from Cairo to Luxor
After such a disappointing snack at the café on the platform, we were looking forward to dinner on the train. There is no dining or lounge car, so food is brought to your cabin by the train steward. The food is served airline-style on a plastic tray with everything individually wrapped. Dinner comprised some of sort of chicken stew with rice, steamed vegetables, and a roll. Bottled water was provided, but coffee, tea, or soft drinks were an extra fee.
Breakfast was equally simple and bland and consisted of meats, cheese, croissants, and a juice box. Although both meals were not very tasty or exciting, they were edible. If food is a concern, I suggest bringing some with you for the ride. We did see others bringing take-out containers onto the train; now we know why!
The Train Ride Experience
They say that this is the part of the train ride from Cairo to Luxor that is most desirable. You can see the countryside and view local villages as you travel along the river Nile. Well, unfortunately, you will not see much along this route. Most of it is during the night and, as such, is entirely dark except for the occasional lights of a town as you approach the station.
The journey itself is by far the most jolting and uncomfortable ride I have experienced while traveling! The train cars sway and rock back and forth to the point that it feels like it is coming off the rails. The clangs and sudden jolts made for absolutely no sleep at all this entire journey.
Lying on my side, the movement was so much that I got bruises on my ribs with the sudden jolts. Attempting to sleep on my back was not much better. Let’s just say that upon waking, I discovered that ALL the women in our tour group got up in the middle of the night to put our bras back on. Yes, the train was moving THAT much! Of course, our partners on the top bunks slept through everything.
Needless to say, not much sleep was had on the overnight train from Cairo to Luxor.
Arriving in Luxor
As the light of dawn began to sneak through the binds in the cabin, the attendant knocked on the door announcing the arrival of our breakfast. As mentioned, it was nothing special, but it signified an end to this horrible experience.
Within the hour, we had arrived in Luxor, lined up with our luggage, and couldn’t wait to get off the train.
What did I think of the Overnight Train from Cairo to Luxor?
It is absolutely the worst MUST-DO experience in Egypt!
Would I do it again? NEVER.
BUT I would highly recommend that it is something YOU must experience once in your lifetime. If you ask anyone that has taken it, they will likely give you a vague answer or perhaps just a silly smile. You must experience this journey on your own, as there is no comparison.
RELATED: If you have the time, be sure to include a Luxor Balloon ride over the valley of the Kings. Get your Guide also has some other great options in Luxor.
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I travelled from Cairo to Luxor via Mount Sinai and down the Red Sea coast and, having read this, I’m glad I didn’t take the train!! It definitely makes an entertaining story though!
So sorry to hear about the disappointing Luxor journey. But hey on the bright side, it certainly made up for a good writing and review. What is travel without a few heartaches 🙂 #flyingbaguette
Yikes! What an experience and so disappointing. I think I’ll pass on taking overnight train from Cairo to Luxor. Greatly appreciate the honest review.
Thanks, everyone promotes this experience. But it needs to be said what to expect.
Must experience it once? I have experienced it vicariously through you! Thank you. I’ll fly!
Thanks for sharing this information on what not to do when in Egypt! Travel isn’t always all awe-inspiring beauty. It’s important people know about things like this. The experience may be worth it for some, but most of us need to know the realities of what travel can be like sometimes!
Absolutely, it is not always champagne and sunsets!
I may give it a miss. I remember that toilet tissue fee all to well and they then hand you the smallest singular piece of tissue. The armed police also put me off and that was 15 years ago they followed us all over Cairo which was concerning
Yes, the toilet fee was annoying. We tried to sneak past the attendance and use our own that we packed.
Great Post very Musgrave sounds a once in a lifetime experience. I doubt we would ever take the dog.